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A 4OO-year-old bond
As you
drive towards Charminar from Nayapul Side, it is Difficult to think
about any Iranian link to this city of cultural confluence. But if you
take small detour before Charminar near Sehran restaurant, cross the
Burqa Street and ask for Irani Gulli, you will be in for a Surprise. In
the single push-cart street by that name you will find two huge arched
homes and inscriptions in Persian. It was in this street that sayyed
Reza's wife gave birth to Mir Abul Qasim whom we know as Mir Alam .
sayyed Reza was a mujtahid (religious cleric) from Shuster in Iran who
came to Delhi to seek his fortune in Mughal empire sometime in late
1780s. It wasn’t one way street then, the doors of Shustar's oldest
mosque were built with shisham wood brought from India. Sayyed Reza
worked under the Mughal Prime Minister Safdar Jung before he wanted to
return to Shushtar. He never did, as he was wooed by Nizam-ul-Mulk the
father Of Nizam Ali Khan to stay back. He settled down in Irani gulli
where other people of Iranian extraction lived. Mir Alam. now lies
buried in Mir Momin ka Daira.
It was Mir Momin Istrabadi who should get the credit for leaving a
permanent stamp of Iranian influence on Hyderabad. Mir Momin, a first
generation Iranian having migrated to Golconda in 1581, was the Prime
Minister during the reign of Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah (1580-1612). It
was Mir Momin who supervised the construction of A Hyderabad modeling it
on lsfahan and called his labour of love Isfahan-I-Nou. But before Mir
Momin could create his paradise on earth, Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah had
the Purana Pul built in 1578 so that his son could cross Musi to meet
his beloved. It was modeled on bridges then ill vogue in Iran (see
Si-o-se-pol completed in 1632 in Isfahan on the opposite page).
Back to Mir Momin, who drew the first draft of Hyderabad with Charminar
as the architectural centre, at the instance of Md Quli Qutub Shah. Mir
Momin was no Ordinary man having worked in Shah Tahmasb's court (of the
Safawid dynasty) in Isfahan before getting disillusioned with court
intrigues. A pious Alim (scholar and authority on Islamic learning),
Mir Momin beside being a Peshwa (the word of Persian etymology meant
religious leader but later got modified to mean political leader as
well) tutored Sultan Quli Qutub Shah and when Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah
died in 1611, Mir Momin rushed to the palace and announced that Sultan
is the new king thus preempting another round of blood-letting 'and
court intrigue, He had jagirs of villages which we now know as Saidabad,
Meerpet, Jillalguda, Cherlapally and Malepally.
A few metres from the Golconda fort are a series of grand quadrangular
structures topped up by a rotund domes. If Mohammad Qutub Shah's tomb
is the grandest with intricate stucco work, the founder of the dynasty
Qutb-ul-Mulk has the simplest of tombs. Qutbul-Mulk can easily be
called a soldier of fortune who say his opportunity in Deccan. Packed
off from a region which now encompasses Armenia, Azerbaijan and
Turkmenistan .by his grandfather Pir Quli who was worried about his
safety, Qutb-ul-Mulk saw his chance here, as he wrote the reason for
not returning: "I have attained the age of twenty and feel that I have
greater chance of rising here as it is bravery and power which are
regarded as passport for favours."
Succeed he did. Creating a dynasty that ruled for nearly 200 years. He
transformed a mud fortress of Kakatiya kings into an impregnable granite
walled fortress. He created the administrative structure that
outlasted him, but more than that he created the basis of cultural
co-existence. A Shia, who nominally owed allegiance to the Safawid
dynasty of Persia, he created a culture where two of high-ranking
officials were Asva Rao and Rai Rao. A Telugu poem Sukasaptati written
by Palavekari Kadiripati talks about Hindu chiefs living if up during
the Qutb-ul-Mulk's reign. They are depicted as wearing pearls, long caps
and silk pyjamas. Qutb-ul-Mulk him self is depicted as wearing
angavastram in a portrait now preserved in Bibliotheque Nationale de
Paris.
The inclusive cultural idiom is easily seen in Asur Khanas built during
the Qutb Shahi period. The procession of alams was almost a throwback to
animist tradition. Mir Abdul Lateef Shustari in Tuhfat al-Alam expresses
his concern.
If the construction of Asur Khanas (mourning halls) evoked memories of
Isfahan for those who emigrated from there, the solemn of grief Moharram
would see people from all walks of life and religions joining in the
grief. Throughout the period of Moharram free food was available at the
Hussaini Alam shrine. According to legend, a Qutb Shahi queen's son was
carried off by a mast elephant during the period. She vowed to feed the
poor if her son was returned. Her son was returned and the free langar
continued for nearly 200 years.
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